Free PDF Pattern & Tutorial: Rohan Skater Shorts {by The Crafty Kitty}

We're excited to feature this exciting tutorial from The Crafty Kitty!  This is a real special tutorial featuring Birch Fabrics' Charley Harper line.  The kind that you will turn to over and over again.  These Rohan Skater Shorts will become a staple to your child's wardrobe.  Or hey, try lengthening the legs to create pants.  The Rohan Skater Shorts are a well planned out pattern to deliver a very professional end garment.  These really are too darling, and your boys will think they're cool too!  Try 'em out!

 I'm pretty sure that, most of the time when I am making clothes for my kids, I am secretly making clothes, that I want to wear... except when it is pink and sparkly with ruffles... that is definitely ALL my daughter! These lined skater shorts were originally designed for the cooler temperatures of autumn and spring, but lining them with a lovely organic flannel (as shown here), teamed up with a pair of wellies and they should see you through winter as well! You could also try them unlined, for the summer months!

 

 The skater shorts are a long shorts (cropped trousers), made from either organic denim or organic corduroy and lined with organic cotton. They feature an embroidered pocket and an adjustable waistband!

Materials (for age 4-5; you may need more or less fabric depending on the size you are sewing)

• 1 metre of organic, fairtrade corduroy (or organic, fairtrade denim)
• 3/4 metre of organic cotton flannel in twigs teal
• fat quarter of organic cotton fabric in white breasted nuthatch
• Organic Cotton Sewing Thread
• 3/4" Buttonhole elastic
• 2 buttons
• pdf pattern (ages 2-6 years)

[n.b. this is the first time I've made a multi-size pattern that wasn't just for me to use, and it hasn't been extensively tested, so it isn't perfect. Please email me with any feedback so I can make adjustments in the future]

From flannel cut:

• 2x lining front
• 2x lining back
• 2x waistband (13"x2")
• 1x strap (1"x8")

From contrast fabric cut:

• 2x pocket facing
• 2x pocket back
• 2x back pocket

From main fabric cut:

• 2x front
• 2x back
• 2x back yoke
• 2x pocket piece
• 2x waistband (13"x2") cross grain
• 1x strap (1"x8")

Place the front pieces of the lining right sides together, sew together at centre seam (use 1/4" seam allowance unless otherwise stated). Repeat for back pieces of the lining.

  Clip along these seam, open and press. Place front lining piece and back lining piece right sides together, aligning centre seam. Sew both out-seams and then sew inseam as one continuous seam. It should now look a bit like this!

    Next we are going to construct the front pockets. Sew the front pocket to the short front (right sides together), as shown in picture below. Flip the pocket over, press and top stitch, close to the edge and then 1/4" away.

  Overlock (use an overlock or zig zag stitch) the curved edge of the pocket piece. line it up on the pocket back and stitch close to the curved edge of pocket piece and along the other edge of the overlocked seam. You can also baste the top and side edges together.

  Line up the pocket front and pocket back, right sides together. Sew along the inside edge. Pin the pocket to the wrong side of the short front and sew close to the edge and then 1/4" away. Baste the top and side of the pocket.†

  Line up the 2 assembled front pieces. Sew the centre seam of the front pieces continuing this seam past the fly flap.†If you are sewing for a girl, fold the fly flaps to the right hand side when viewing from the reverse side, sewing for a boy, fold the fly flaps to the left hand side when viewing from reverse. Top stitch close to the centre seam and then sew close to the edge of the fly and then 1/4" away from the fly. sew a second line of top stitching extending down from the bottom of the fly and 1/4" away from the centre seam.

Attach the yoke pieces to the back pieces. press seam away from yoke.

  Now place the back pieces right sides together, lining up the yoke seams. Sew centre seam.†Clip seam, press open, and topstitch 1/8" either side of the centre seam. top stitch 1/8" away from the yoke seam and then a second row of top stitching a further 1/4" away.

  Add embellishment to the back pocket main fabric pieces, if desired. I mimicked the design on the Octoberama prints.

  Place the back pocket main and lining pieces right sides together. sew around the edge leaving a gap at the bottom for turning. Clip corners. Turn right side out and press.

  Sew two lines of stitching parallel to the top of the pocket. Now pin in place on the back of the shorts. Take the lining and main fabric strap pieces. fold the long raw edges into the centre, place the two pieces wrong sides together and top stitch close to each long edge.†Line up one raw edge of the strap with the bottom of the front pocket on the same side. Baste in place.

  Pin the other end of the strap under the bottom edge of the left back pocket.

  Sew both back pockets onto the back of the shorts.

  Turn shorts so that the front and back are right sides together and sew outer seams. open seams and top stitch either side of the seam.

  Now turn the shorts inside out, line up the crotch and sew the inseam as one continous seam.

  Clip the seam along the curve.†Turn the shorts right side out. Take the lining for the shorts and put it inside the main fabric shorts with wrong sides together.

  Sew the two waistband pieces together along the short edges and press seam open. Pin the waistband with right side facing the shorts. I didn't use interfacing on my waistband, but it might be useful, just to give a little more stability to the front of the waistband.†Sew the waistband, lining and shorts together and press seam towards waistband.

 
 Take one of the waistband lining pieces. Sew on a label (if using) and mark a line.

  Sew the buttonholes on these two marks.

  Sew the two lining waistbands together and then sew the lining waistband to the main waistband.

  Sew buttons to waistband and sew elastic in place.

  I decided to hand stitch the lining waistband shut, to make sure that the seams were covered, but you can skip this step if you are confident and just top stitch the waistband to finish it off.

  The last thing to do is to turn the lining and main cuffs under by 1/4" and then top stitch with a single line of top stitching.

  And there you have it! A pair of skater shorts, ready for any season!

Check out the pockets on the original Fort Firefly Version! You can find the 'how to' for this version of the pockets on my blog, the crafty kitty!

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Thank you to Stephanie for her superior talents and creative spirit.  She is darn nice too! :)  Make sure you visit her blog, The Crafty Kitty, you'll be blown away with inspiration.